A known face for those who were Elbulli clients paraded by the room of a restaurant condemned to close on March 9, 2022, located almost at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Pol Perelló began to work almost adolescent in the most influential business of the contemporary era of gastronomy. 'Today', accompanies in Paris to Albert Adrià in the boot of an extraordinary project: ADMO is the ephemeral space created by Alain Ducasse and Albert Adrià in Paris, with the complicity of Dom Pérignon and with the challenge of "Re-evolve the idea of high European cuisine. " It started on November 9 and will last only 100 days. With this infrequent project, they are making history.
Although of different generations (Ducasse, 1956, Adrià, 1969) and almost divergent culinary styles, both could be classified among the most influential global culinary scene. "The strange couple", Autodefine the minor of the Adrià, who has suffered "very close" the effects of the pandemic, with the goodbye to Elbarri, the Alliance of Him with the Churches Brothers (owners of Rías de Galicia). With Enigma as his only restaurant, "could reopen in 2022- and with international projects such as Londoner Cakes & Bubbles, Albert Adrià had been immersed in R & D for brands (Lays, Vicens-Xoxolata Jolonch, Europastry or Bacardi)) . Until Ducasse, which at the end of June left Plaza Athenée (Luxury Hotel where one of his trisples was located) by the end of the contract, appeared shortly before the summer to raise a proposal: "Do you want to have fun?" He snapped Albert Adrià, Whose business of the Barcelona parallel had impressed French.
ADMO emerged from there. The announcement at the beginning of August - Vío Instagram - of the Temporary Alliance Ducasse-Adrià was the output pistol for three months of frantic work. Online and face-to-face meetings were taken in Paris and Barcelona, as well as a key piece: Romain Meder, right hand of Ducasse, which has landed this pop-up with a constant contact with Adrià and the support of Jessica Préalpato, better pastry of the world in 2019.
Looking for Headquarters. First step? Decide the location, Task assumed by the Ducasse business group, which brings together three dozens of restaurants in a dozen countries, which with almost 20 stars grant the world record of Michelin stars to the chef who was the only survivor of an aviation accident in 1984 . The Ducasse team gave with space: Les Nombres, restaurant at the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac -created in 2006 by the former president of the French Republic. Its glazed dome appeared to the Eiffel Tower came the ideal space to experience "the creation of a European cuisine. It means breaking a taboo, opening the mind and borders. It is a new step in gastronomy," Alain Ducasse argues. "
At the business plan of ADMO, its own denomination was included: an acronym formed by the initials of the Surnames of Adrià, Ducasse and Meder, with the addition of the 'O' of Les Nombres.
Next Step: What was going to eat at ADMO? "At first, we almost blocked each other mentally. We were building ADMO as an onion, that is, layer to layer. It is a group collaboration, in which it is implemeable that each one out of its own. They can not import the egos. We have reflected on How and what to cook and about the liturgy to serve the menu, born of the idea of creating a single cuisine doing a collective job; this is 'only' an experiment, "says Adrià.
With many suppliers of Ducasse as allies, ADMO has given rise to a collection of new dishes, which are neither 100% of Ducasse nor 100% of Adrià, but joint creations where the Naturalité philosophy of the French is combined (linked to the Ferrine Defense of the seasonal product) with the creative genius of Spanish. "I come to cook Alain's house, I must adapt to his customs and norms, we are one in this project. I had to learn his philosophy and the way of working in Romain. It has not been so much focusing on recipes, but gather philosophies," he says Adrià. An example: Mole, Cauliflower and Liver of Rape, whose base sauce comes from the Holy Leaf Mole (which was the Mexican Elbarri restaurant) that Meder revisited with the vision of a hunting sauce. "There are 50% of each one in the recipe that, in the end, is three times better," they say.
This experiment reaches the client in the form of a 7-course tasting menu, more snacks, with a price of 380 euros (without drinks). At noon-bajo a very Parisian formula-, a shorter menu (5 recipes, 200 euros) is dispatched. They are cheaper prices than those of high cuisine in Paris.
If Ducasse is a kind of sponsor who gives the OK or thresh the ADMO dishes, there has been another key piece: Vincent Chaperon, Chef de Cave de Dom Pérignon, French Maison without the one that this "ephemeral and experimental project", probably , I would not have come forward. "Vincent is the person who has tried our menu and more has helped us to do it round," says Albert Adrià. Dom Pérignon (whose president and CEO is the Spanish Berta of Pablos-Barbier) took advantage to launch its Vintage Rosé 2008, "A champagne so peculiar as this project," says Chaperon.
With its almost full tables, Admo serves 65 diners at noon and 85 at night. It has a team of about 60 professionals (the waiters do a single service), contributed by Ducasse or Adrià-and others from the template of Les Nombres. "Alain has a team that is a Ferrari," says Catalan, who for the opening resorted to his team: Pol Perelló, Ferran Centelles (was Sumiller of Elbulli), Tristán López Steward (cook turned into his assistant) and some of the Lobos, his trusted core in Elbarri. Among them, the young Rubén González Zubiri and Patricia Lugo did not hesitate to leave a few days Hamabi (his business open a year ago in Pamplona) to support his former head in the activation of ADMO.Date Of Update: 08 December 2021, 19:28