A kid of Cáceres climbing the Olympic top. He wanted to make history. And he did it. It was a conquest for sections. First of being the only Spaniard between the 20s with a ticket for these games. After, last Tuesday, he joined the big party when being one of the eight best and sneaking into the final with 294 points. The epic was missing in the Aomi Sports Park, in the Bay of Tokyo, for a young man who was never in the quinielas of favorites.
Alberto Ginés López has won a gold medal over 18 years climbing by a 15-meter wall. He debuted in the games. Climbing was also a new sport that the International Olympic Committee (COI) had included in Tokyo, along with Skateboarding and 3x3 basketball, to attract the younger people to the screen.
Gingan began its final tract with a first position in the speed test. He has faced the wall against the best climber in the world, the Czech Adam Ondra. And he has climbed faster than him.
Then, when the sunset left a tokyo sky of the same color as its famous red tower, the block test, the Achilles heel of the Extremado. It is a more horizontal journey without a safety rope. There are four tracks of 4'5 meters with a starting point, an intermediate one and one end up.
Spanish failed to make a top. He was seventh. He would come out fourth in the classification to the test of difficulty, the specialty of him, in which each climber is six minutes to reach the highest on the wall passing through different intermediate points. Unlike other sports, on climbing what is rewarded is the regularity in the three modalities, and not everything is at stake in the last.
In the last test, Ginés was the sixth of climbing the wall, raising the prey and achieving a score of 38+, making a medal that at the end of the test would be confirmed that it was golden.
Ginés arrived in Tokyo accompanied by his coach, David Macià, and by the physiotherapist Núria Butcher. Macià discovered the extreme skills when he was 10 years old. And he no longer released it. He stretched his potential at the Car de Sant Cugat, a high performance center in Barcelona.
"A couple of years ago I would have said that going to Tokyo was impossible, we thought about reaching the 2024 games, but the results were coming and here we are," said Macià in an interview with the world. The ward of him was already undercamperel of Europe behind Ondra, the world champion, author of a fantastic performance in the difficulty test, with a score of 42+.
Ginés sided a rocodrome for the first time with three years. His father, also named Alberto, has climbed a lifetime and took him to the Route of the walls. With 13 years, he began to compete.
"That Alberto came to the Car was a very important step forward. In Extremadura he had no facilities, it was very difficult to evolve. It is as if a skier left the Sahara. Here we lack sports rocodromes, we have to train in commercial rooms in Barcelona, next to People who just want to have a good time, but at least there are options and in the Car has many facilities, "said Macià. De Sant Cugat came out to train Portugal, France or Austria, in search of Rocódromos who did not find in Spain.Updated Date: 05 August 2021, 09:22