Menus with Michelin star are cooked in the laboratory

Spain is a gastronomic power not only by the richness of its recipe book and the quality of raw materials, but by the indisputable innovative seal of its chefs.

Menus with Michelin star are cooked in the laboratory

Spain is a gastronomic power not only by the richness of its recipe book and the quality of raw materials, but by the indisputable innovative seal of its chefs.

With terms such as spherification and deconstruction in the street, in the last century there has been an explosion of innovation with techniques, technologies and equipment that have helped experiment.

To this, social factors have contributed, such as interest in a restoration focused on leisure and competitiveness. "At first cooks served wealthy people and they did not need to look for clients," recalls Jorge Breton, professor at the Faculty of Gastronomic Sciences of Basque Culinary Center (BCC) and coordinator of the avant-garde area.

After time, with another concept of valid gastronomy, the need to offer the dishes attractively, fanning the competition.

Thus, to stand out in the stove, the vault of innovation, mounted by movements "was opened" from the pioneer Organizational Innovation of Auguste Escoffier, until the French Nouvelle Cuisine of light, delicate and best presented dishes, or the closest new Basque cuisine " , Remember Breton.

In the kitchen, it has been innovated by a mixture of necessity, due to the possibility of doing so at a specific technical advances and, of course, by will, as creativity and the possibility of going beyond coexist in this art.

If the work is observed in the haute cuisine it is seen that innovation "is the natural result of curiosity, nonconformism, the search for excellence and the eagerness to make the customer happy," says Javier Avento de la Rosa, Editor of The gastronomic firm Montagud publishers.

Innovation is, more than a goal, result of the high level of Spanish cuisine. "We will continue to see progress, because we are facing the best-formed chef generation with an overflow talent," he adds from the rose.

In the field of own names not only highlights the very well-known Ferran Adrià, a whole innovation icon, exceeding even the scope of gastronomy.

At the top of Spanish cuisine are great professionals such as the Roca brothers (the Celler of Can Roca), Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz) or the Andalusz Dani Garcia, at the head of the group of the same name.

Such a sum of creative forces contributed to international cuisine new products (texturizers, emulsifiers, thickeners, aerant, gelling and even liquid nitrogen), as well as novel technologies (with lyophilizers, distillers, vacuum machines, bath cooking systems and flow of Water, siphons, smoking and pressure processors).

In this area highlights the work of the AZTI Scientific and Technological Center, which has developed with the main chefs new textures, stabilized foams and emulsions thanks to the knowledge of its microstructure.

In the Vizcaino center they have investigated sugar substitutes and healthier products. "We have worked on formulation and have collaborated on identifying and evaluating technologies such as lyophilization, high pressures, vacuum cooking processes and chemical treatment in restoration," explains Iñigo Martínez de Marañón, Technological Director of AZTI.

However, product innovations germinated in this crop, "where Aduriz and his work with roots and seeds, Quique Dacosta and the Aloe Vera or Ángel León and the Plankton," Breton, Breton, and Plankton, and Angel León and the Plankton, "recall.

Own universes have, also, Rodrigo de la Calle and its vegetable cuisine, Dabiz Muñoz and its proposal for merger and Eneko Atxa and sustainability as a creative tool.

It is difficult to quote them all and even more to pick up their contributions, because it is innovated in many ways, beyond the obvious.

"This includes locating a three-star restaurant Michelin (Azurmendi, Atxa), in a bioclimatic building almost a decade ago or interpret elaborations of al-Ándalus in contemporary key, showing that you can innovate looking at the past, as Paco Morales has made In Noor Restaurant, "argues from Rosa.

In a global world the chefs open to ingredients, not necessarily in the way expected in the gastronomies of which they come, but in a personal way.

"Example of this is, currently, the use of the oblatum, a role of edible soybean, that some use to wrap and others as crunchy or texture," illustrates Breton.

To the case also comes standardization in the use of insects, not as a protein source or seeking the provocation, but by a taste issue.

"You can go to Brazil A for ants with lemon flavor or Mexico A for others with taste to honey, crush them with coffee, give them a spicy taste and elaborate a creation adapted to your style," says the BCC teacher.

With the developed world immersed in a deep process of digitization, this phenomenon is reflected in the kitchen with 3D or additive printing. Foodini is a culinary printer launched by Natural Machines, who use cooks like the Torres brothers (two Michelin stars) to make complex forms and develop their use cuisine, exploring the taste.

"We have patented cooking by laser and we have prototypes that print and cook, efficient energy efficient, which avoid the creation of harmful benzopyrenes and acrylamides and that do not need water or cooking oil," says Emilio Sepúlveda, CEO of Natural Machines.

The possibilities are many and this is just the beginning, so we will have to be attentive to the dish.

Updated Date: 07 January 2022, 15:57

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