On his hillside of Aÿ, Christian Gosset juggles with his plots: the pinot noir takes on the accent of clay with millstones, then chalk on the heights of Loiselu; going down towards Croix-Courcelles, the chalkier soil gives this grape variety a saline touch that is intensely found in a second sector planted with chardonnay. Persistence is here the major signifier, while the fruit in its accuracy translates the expression of each place.
At Franck Bonville, we play brilliantly with the variation of the communal wines of the Côte des Blancs on a tasty 2014 mode: the mineral Pur Mesnil, the creamy Pur Avize and the sensual Pur Oger follow a cuvée Belles Voyes 2013, magnifying the grand cru Chouilly by superb convolutions.
Further south, near Congy, Olivier Collin excels! Its wines best express the subtle minerality of the Pierrières, the clayey density of the Roises and the elegant smoothness of the Underworld, and its Maillons fully embody the root quintessence of the Sézannais. While, in the Radiant Dawn of Montgueux, Didier Doué perfectly translates the chalkiness of the Corres, as well as the distinguished and pulpy edge of the flint of Truchat. When the chalkiness and the richness of constitution are found on the Faite 2015, we touch the Grail.
Christian Gosset Croix Courcelle Blanc de Chardonnay 2016
In its Chardonnay version, this cuvée remains cut out for laying down, thanks to a smoky density and a nice edge that gives energy to the finish. 58 €
Franck Bonville Pur Chandelier 2014
We are on a tactile cuvée favoring creaminess, with just enough distinction and an aromatic offering of brioche and candied fruit. 50,20 €
Ulysse Collin The Links
Very typical energy, mixing the root and the mineral, on a background of yellow fruits, spices and stone. Radiant volume in the mouth, it is superbly successful, an aristocratic cuvée! 80 €
Didier Doue Les Corres
We appreciate the limestone grain, all in purity and energetic uprightness, with a final saline touch perfect for an iodized broth of pink prawns. Obvious value for money. 27 €
Pierre Gimonnet Cramant 2015
This is the DNA of the terroirs of this area of the Côte des Blancs, with a very subtle creaminess, perfectly stretched here by a chalky purity ensuring a final rebound of great class. €87.50
Claude Cazals Clos Cazals 2012 €78
Clos des Bergeronneau Old Vines 95 €
Antoine Chevalier Carkonnia Meunier's Garden 2017 €44.
R. Pouillon Les Blanchiens 2014 €70.
Elémart Robion The Monets €46.