Jakob Strobel y Serra
Deputy head of the cultural pages.F. A. Z.
In this beautiful mess, has brought us to Martin to stop, the chief of "Louis", this is one if very easily, and very well – intentioned maliziös inclined – as a kitchen can contemplate God most egotistical atonement for culinary deadly sins. Because it is the heritage of the finished pizza giants Wagner, who, after the sale of his company to Nestlé, a green bought a Villa in Saar-Louis, and with as much effort as purse and the courage to make radical Design-Chic in a boutique hotel remodel was was. From the beginning, a gourmet restaurant, it was planned, finally the master of the house, itself, is a trained chef and fanatical Foodies. Martin stop was in 2015, his first employee, opened the first Bistro in the Hotel and 2018, the "Louis" in which he cooked himself prompt a Michelin star, of course, not only with the sun king's food, but also with regular menus.
Our Concours du Roi Soleil begins with a cornucopia of equally delicate, playful, and intricate Miniatures. Only the crackers with Comté taste, pickled red mullet, Sauce Rouille and a sphere with a Bouillabaisse-filling, or the preserved duck leg with red cabbage-Julienne, iced Foie Gras and Pommery mustard as Jus and Merengue would fill in the other houses all the dishes in the main course, are in the "Louis" but only a foretaste of the coming Abundance of about the "French Maki", which encloses with its algae cover not less than foie Gras and langoustine tartare, ginger Gel, and Sushi rice, caviar, and Wasabi.
In the reduction of the wort
So many flavors in such a small space always pose a risk, to neutralize each other, and secretly we wanted to get not one, but three of Maki, each with a main taste. As well, a little self-restraint can taste it, Martin, stop, after his "Foie Gras ice cream" dancing with geliertem plum wine, sesame seeds, winter cress, and the Japanese rice cake Mochi, a graceful minuet to the plate, without the ingredients contact each other on the feet.
The courses hold a couple of venial trivialities such as the braised Beetroot with carrot Kraut, butter milk foam and bergamot and a lot of convincing kitchen works of art ready: a paper-thin cut slices of veal tongue, which is a court made of red cabbage, mustard, Apple, cress, a Apple cider vinegar Gel from the barrel and a Beurre blanc, radish and horseradish, but this Time without aromas-hullabaloo pay homage to; the Savoyard home cooking classics Croziflette from small buckwheat noodles, charged with Périgord truffles and a delightfully airy Reblochon foam in the nobility of Haute Cuisine; or the fricassee of Langustine and Pork with Jerusalem artichoke, winter truffle, parsley foam and crustacean butter, this is a fine-tuned variant of the marriage of sea and mountain.
in between smuggling always passages full of aromatic debauchery, such as the Scottish wild salmon, pickled first, then fried, and finally with a Gel made of oranges and star anise, Kohlrabi, lovage, and the Indian spice mixture Vadouvan is combined. Or the Chicken Wings in the Label Rouge-quality, the get to do it with sweet potatoes, duck liver, Cajun Crunch, toasted Corn, Cashew nuts and Lemon, Buddha's Hand.
As a Pizza-delivery guy
called ... and Martin stop led no dissolute life. He was born in 1980 in the vicinity of Saarlouis, went as a sixteen year old to twenty-one years of Klaus Erfort in the teaching, at that time had a Michelin star, and eight of the ten Gault-Millau-points, and then the wandering. He was on the Bühlerhöhe and in Switzerland, spent only escapade of three years, with cook and celebrate in Berlin, and returned as a chef in a Two star hotel in Saarland back. Then he became a father and left it as a canteen chef in the Commerzbank in Luxembourg for a while. To send three hundred food of the day, and not was tantamount to a mockery of his talent, so he hesitated for a long time, as the Pizza-guy Wagner called.Updated Date: 24 July 2020, 18:19