Two peoples, one city and the same intense joy of experiencing “among brothers” a quarter-final of the African Cup of Nations (CAN), as supporters of the two nations insist. Saturday February 3, Mali challenges Ivory Coast at the Stade de la Paix in Bouaké. In this stunning CAN, it was necessary that this classic of the sub-region, this “Barça-Real”, as local reporters nicknamed it, be held in this very special city – the second in the country (more than 800,000 inhabitants) – where a large Malian diaspora lives.
In the streets overwhelmed by motorcycle taxis, some drivers wear the Eagles jersey with their chests out. “Bouaké is Mali,” says Sanogo Touma, 43, a trader whose shop is located not far from the bus station. I was born in Bouaké, but I have to support my dad’s country. It won’t be a small match. » He promises that the stands will be “from north to south and from east to west” in the colors of the Eagles.
“In 2016, there was a match in Bouaké between the two countries, Mali opened the score, and the stadium stood up, I said to myself “we are invaded”. Afterwards, we calmed them down, recalls Jean-Claude Kouakou, a 47-year-old Ivorian, with a laugh. The Elephants won 3-1. The atmosphere will be hot during this quarter, but in a good way. There will be a match on the pitch and another in the stands with Ivorian dominance. We’re still at home! »
“We remain two inseparable neighboring countries”
Friday, at the end of the day, this medical delegate was buying a tunic in the colors of the Elephants. The three sellers, all of Malian origin, arrived from Abidjan and brought back in their bags 1,500 orange and 500 yellow-green-red jerseys from the opposing team to sell. For them who live in Ivory Coast, this meeting is a torment: which side to choose? Eagles or Elephants? “May the best man win,” says Samba Cissé, 35, who prefers to kick in before changing his mind: Ivory Coast must win, because we have a lot of jerseys to sell. » One of his colleagues is a little less cynical. “I am divided, but I lean more towards Ivory Coast,” confides Amadou Sylla, 24 years old. It’s true that I’m Malian, but I was born here, I grew up here, my heart is Ivorian. »
This is a feeling shared by many Malians met in this city. “We remain two inseparable neighboring countries,” wants to insist Amadou Sylla. Bouaké is geographically in the center of Ivory Coast. A commercial crossroads between the different countries of the sub-region, the city has welcomed, in recent decades, Burkinabe, Guinean, Senegalese and Malian immigration. Since the rebellion started in 2002, of which it was the “capital”, and the political crises that occurred from 2012 onwards in Mali and then in Burkina Faso, the number of nationals from these two countries has further increased.
Bouaké the rebel resumed its development in 2011 and the end of the war; the stadium which bears the name “Peace” is therefore intended to be a sign of national reconciliation, while the city has just moved closer to Abidjan: the highway was extended on the occasion of the CAN and now places the economic capital less than 5 hours away.
“Palaver”
A sporting duel, this Mali-Côte d’Ivoire is also a political poster. Ties between these two countries have weakened to the point of becoming hostile since the military came to power in Bamako during two coups in 2020 and 2021. Economic and political sanctions, of which Ivorian President Alassane Ouattara was a fervent supporter, were decided against the country by the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS). A sign of the tension, 49 Ivorian soldiers accused of being mercenaries responsible for destabilizing Bamako were detained by Mali between July 2022 and January 2023. The official rupture was pronounced on Sunday January 28, when Mali, accompanied by Burkina Faso and of Niger have announced their departure from the regional organization, which could have consequences on the free movement of goods and people hitherto in force. “Politically, it’s tense, but not between the population,” assures Cissé Fosseny, a shoe trader from Mali. This match is an opportunity to show the world that the two peoples are united. A Malian in Ivory Coast or an Ivorian in Mali, he is at home. We are all from the same family. »
In Bouaké, we don’t want to get caught up in endless “talks”. “There are people who seek to do harm on social networks, it’s not good,” says Badjé Gnagadou of the High Council of Malians in Ivory Coast. There is nothing political in this football match, the ball is fun. »
The Mali coach, Eric Sekou Chelle, clearly sensed the “symbolic” issue around this meeting and at the start of the pre-match press conference on February 2, he wanted to emphasize that this quarter-final is being played “ between two brother countries, in a place whose name is the Peace Stadium, on a football field.” He added that “the two nations will emerge from this match strengthened” and that “we will be able to kiss each other at the end”. Ivory Coast coach Emerse Faé also gave a peaceful speech: “We will remain in fair play, and I hope that both peoples are in this state of mind. The CAN is the celebration of Africa, of African football, we, the players, must set an example. »
Next to the Cacomiaf shopping center, Alou Kouma, 25, a Malian who has lived in Bouaké for four years, is the object of amusement from his Ivorian friends. “He’s afraid,” says N’Valy Nacer Camara, 32, “Mali has never won the Elephants. Never. » He is confident: “This time is the right one, there is a first for everything. » The two men work together at a wholesale notebook seller. Alou Kouma says he is happy to live in this city “without animosity”. “We all live together,” says N’Valy Nacer Camara. Mali-Côte d’Ivoire, whoever wins, Bouaké will be the winner. »