Most guests don't even notice it. Or maybe only those who have been to the Maldives before. Because someone like Sam is new. She was born on one of those islands where only locals live. And until twelve years ago, tourists were not even allowed to enter them. But Sam is there. The 21-year-old has been working at reception for four months and always has an eye on which guests are expected and when they are leaving.
With her large, dark eyes framed by an almost transparent flower headscarf, she seems more delicate and fragile than she is. "It's freedom time" shines behind her in colorful neon lettering on a black and pink striped wall. The mantra of the "Cora Cora" resort, which is actually intended for the guests and should serve as the answer to all questions that arise in a paradise like this.
And yet it also reminds Sam how brave she was when, against her parents' wishes, she left her home atoll to go her own way and earn her own money. "I've become a lot more confident since then," she says. "And I'm not scared anymore." For most families, such a decision is scandalous because they believe the resorts, with their booze-drinking, bikini-wearing tourists, are a bad influence on their daughters.
The fact that the Maldives is a strictly Islamic state with a strict ban on alcohol, special dress codes and Sharia law is something you don't notice in the luxury resorts on the islands. A dream world in pastel. With a picture postcard beach, commercial palm trees, mini jungle in the middle, and a drink around every corner.
This is also the case in “Cora Cora Maldives”. Mozart plays underwater in the pool and at the other end a long wooden pier stretches far into the turquoise blue sea, lined with whitewashed bungalows on stilts to the left and right. The guests lack nothing, not even Roquefort cheese or brown bread.
Hardly anyone suspects that a few islands further afield, the view still prevails that women shouldn't work at all after marriage at the latest - which explains why employees like Sam are still the exception in the Maldives to this day.
While in most Maldivian resorts there is still a massive surplus of men, often out of necessity, the “Cora Cora” wanted to do things differently from the start. And has consciously placed a lot of responsibility in female hands. Ten of the 50 employees now have managerial positions – and the trend is rising. That may seem small compared to the 157 men employed, but it is a uniquely large number in the Maldives.
At the same time, Sumbal Mushtag sits in her little beach practice, contemplating loneliness. Possibly the loneliest spot on all of Raa Maamigili, the slightly secluded hut with a palm-leaf roof, frosted glass panes and red cross at the entrance is the actual name of the resort island, which is so small it takes less than 20 minutes to circumnavigate it.
Sumbal Mushtag is also an exception. By the time the doctor goes into space for the first time in four or five years, she must be able to cope with the unimaginably overwhelming loneliness that prevails there.
She takes this very seriously. “When I first held a picture book about space travel in my hands at the age of four, I knew I was going to be an astronaut.” For the next two decades, she heard what most girls with ideas like this are told: It's nothing for you, only boys can do that. "Only my dad said to me: Nothing is impossible."
He turned out to be right: in May of this year, he was accepted for a scholarship at the International Space University (ISU). The 29-year-old with Pakistani roots sees her job as a resort doctor as ideal preparation for loneliness. Although she is on call 24 hours a day, nothing ever happens. "A small cut or sunburn, that's quickly taken care of."
Having grown up in a patriarchal society, she first freed herself from the ban on dreaming big and then from her religion. She has a clear goal in mind: Supported by the Dutch biotech company Spaceborn United, she wants to be the first doctor in the near future to accompany an expectant mother in giving birth to the first child in space. "We need this knowledge if we ever want to colonize space," says Sumbal Mushtag. She is certain: As far as this milestone of humanity is concerned, she will make history.
Speaking of history, before Islamization in the 10th century and long after, matriarchy ruled in the Maldives. The islands were then ruled by queens, the grandmother of each family was the female head, and disputes were settled by wise women. In the family system, the female line was decisive.
According to travel reports from seafarers, their clothes were rather scanty and on some islands free love was the order of the day, there were also temporary marriages. Midwives were held in the highest regard, and Sultan Khadeeja Rehendi Kabaidhi Kilege ruled the country for an incredible 35 years in the 14th century. Coexistence was considered peaceful and free from aggression. The women also maintained strong networks among themselves and supported one another.
Rifqa, who lives with her family in the capital Malé, is one such networker today. The 31-year-old leads Cora Cora's first native all-female welcome committee for all guests arriving at the international airport. Actually a man's job, which is why she and her team were initially smiled at and underestimated for a long time. In the meantime, her troupe is causing a lot of attention because they are giving their homeland a new look.
When team boss Rifqa is looking for reinforcements, she prefers female applicants without professional experience: "It is practically impossible for women to gain a foothold here because it is not possible without a network." Therefore, Rifqa also sees herself as a door opener who encourages her employees to take the first important step the career ladder allows.
Chef May Chiang has already climbed the ladder of fame. In the open kitchen of the "Ginger Moon" restaurant, she prepares the ingredients for the evening: carrots, bamboo shoots, chicken strips, rice paper. And plenty of chili. “We have the best of Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam and the Philippines. Countries that my team and I come from,” says the native Thai.
From the kitchen, May has uninterrupted views of the sea, palm trees and the pristine beach. For them, this is the best place to work in the world. Actually, she never wanted to be a chef. Until she ate her first eclair when she was 20 and was so delighted with it that from then on she wanted to learn how to make something so delicious herself.
Today May is 36, has worked in star kitchens, ran his own restaurant and won awards. She could never have imagined working only with women. "Too much drama," she says. But that didn't materialize when she was assigned an eight-strong, all-female team upon arrival. The first few weeks were chaotic, but at some point things just went smoothly.
Same today. A few hours later almost all tables are occupied. May is in her element, filling plates with nasi goreng, gado-gado, summer rolls and mango sticky rice. Your team almost floats back and forth between the kitchen and the guests, accompanied by gentle guitar sounds. There is a relaxed bustle and everyone knows intuitively where they are needed. "The guests like us," says May. "We women pay more attention to details and have warmth in our hearts."
Word has gotten around on the local islands that the luxury resort in the Raa Atoll specifically hires, promotes and trains local women, including a leadership program designed to smooth their way into management. A total of 17 have dared to take the step in the last few months and at the same time found a new family on Raa Maamigili. And with it strong role models.
Take spa manager Chana Khumkhur, for example, who offers couples therapy and healing work alongside the usual massage treatments. Because both work best as long as "newly married couples are still on cloud nine together," as she says.
Or the South African Sisipho Mbombo, who, as DJane Si'Noir, fills the beach bar with soft electro sounds every evening. With sometimes blue-silver, sometimes rainbow-colored plaits, the 27-year-old is something of the artistic free spirit of the island; With her music and flashy outfits, she shows that femininity also means freedom.
Other important areas such as housekeeping, sales and finances are also firmly in female hands. Just like head chef May and her team or the island doctor Sumbal Mushtag, these women contribute to the fact that the world is just as open to the still young female local offspring at some point.
It will probably be a few more years before that happens. Of the almost 150 resorts in the Maldives, only two are managed by women, both of whom come from abroad. And the other hotel islands also have bosses from abroad, only one has a Maldivian man as manager.
Martin Van der Reijden is at the top of the “Cora Cora Maldives” – and he wants to change that. “Women bring something into it that men cannot,” says the 56-year-old Swiss. "Something maternal, soft, they care in a different way and care for the areas they work in with love." He thinks the guests feel that too, even if they can't immediately pinpoint the reason.
For the hotel director, Sam is one of the most promising young talents: “She has great potential. She's going to make it to the top.” If he has his way, she'll be the first local ever to fill his position in the not too distant future. Sam nods shyly and says: "I wish that too." She now knows for herself that she has what it takes. It's freedom time!
Arrival: For example with Turkish Airlines from eleven German airports via Istanbul to Malé. Condor flies direct from Frankfurt.
Accommodation: Opened in October 2021, the 5-star all-inclusive Cora Cora Maldives resort is accessible from Malé by seaplane only. It has the highest percentage of female staff, is child-friendly but also good for honeymooners and diving enthusiasts. From 890 euros per night for two in a bungalow, including alcoholic beverages and meals (coracoresorts.com).
Don't miss: neighboring "Tsunami Island" is the only island in the Maldives that was hit and destroyed by the 2004 tsunami. Abandoned residential buildings and a mosque remain, and excursions can be organized on site. Likewise for the "Turtle Experience": A one-hour boat trip to a remote reef that is home to countless sea turtles. Since there are only a few resorts in the area, the animals feel undisturbed and even swim curiously towards visitors.
Information: visitmaldives.com
Participation in the trip was supported by Cora Cora Maldives and Turkish Airlines. You can find our standards of transparency and journalistic independence at axelspringer.com/de/Werte/downloads.
Stand in line again before you go on vacation. This is what it looks like at some airports in Germany. Lufthansa is now canceling another 2,000 flights. But with the right preparation, travelers can ensure a more relaxed start to their holidays themselves.
Source: WELT / Marcus Tychsen
